Shift Knob
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Zeroing A Red Dot Sight
Red dot and holographic sights are similar to traditional riflescopes in zeroing in procedure. Anyone can zero a scope by trial and error, but without doing so methodically you may waste a lot of ammunition. This method assumes you don't have limitless ammunition or access to a boresighter and don't have access to a formal centerfire rifle range.
You first need to make your weapon safe. With a rifle, keep the muzzle in a safe direction, remove the magazine (if detachable), work the action and manually inspect the chamber and feed ramp. You must ensure that your red dot sight is level relative to the rifle it is mounted on. Many sights, for example the Eotech 553.A65 (United States Special Operations Command's SU-231/PEQ (Model 553)), incorporate mounts that do this automatically. The tubular ones often have the feature that they can be rotated in the rings so that either adjuster can change elevation or windage/azimuth. The models with tube chassis can often be rotated so that either adjuster can move elevation or azimuth to suit left or right handed shooters. It can be difficult to get them vertical, but the adjusters can serve as a visual reference. You first need to attach the mount and lower half of the ring(s) (which are usually integral) to the rifle. In deciding where to place the mounts you also need to consider other items you may want to mount there including a magnifier or night vision system. If you then wedge the rifle between sandbags or secure it in a padded vise and level it, you can drop the scope into the open mounting rings and screw down the top rings so they exert a very light pressure of the sight. Eye relief (important with magnifying reflex sights) can also be fine tuned at this stage by pushing the scope through the rings if clearance allows. Rotate the sight until it looks perpendicular, then tighten diagonally opposed screws one turn at a time to ensure even distribution of pressure on the sight. Turn the elevation adjuster all the way down, being careful not to turn once resistance is met, then rotate it all the way up, counting all the clicks as you go. Turn the adjuster back down by half that number, then repeat the process with the windage dial. The adjusters are now centered. If the sight's red dot is now nowhere near the target, the chances are you have mounted the sight incorrectly.
You should have access to somewhere to shoot targets with a safe backstop. It should allow shooting at at least 100 yards/meters but 200 yards is preferable. It will be beneficial if you can also shoot at a closer distance - 25 yards/meters is ideal.
If you have a spotting scope it really cuts down on walking if you have a calibrated target. Just draw a grid of known dimensions on a sheet of paper or board.. A one inch grid is suitable for sights with imperial or metric graduations. The lines need to be drawn thick enough to be seen at 100 yards through your spotting scope. The aiming marks need to be big enough not to be obscured by the aiming dot of your sight. For the 2 MoA dot of an Aimpoint, your aiming marks should be 4 inch diameter at 100 yards and 1 inch diameter at 25 yards. Make up a few of these targets, each with at least five aiming marks on each to have a few spares handy. Try to get to the range on a calm day and try to avoid the hotter hours to prevent mirage becoming a problem. Be sure to have binoculars, pen and paper and a pocket calculator with you!
You start by getting the rifle to put its shots on the card You can accomplish this in a variety of ways. If you have a bolt action rifle, you can take out the bolt, put the rifle in a padded vise or between sandbags and look down the bore to align the rifle at a distinct point 25 yards/meters distant. You can now make the sight adjustments to put the red dot on the target. AR15s lend themselfves to this technique as you can break the action and withdraw the bolt carrier, then clamp the barrel in a padded vise. Though this will work with some other semiautos, it will not work with Garands, M1As etc. nor with most pump and lever actions.
A more expensive alternative is to fire and adjust after single shots taken from a rested/supported shooting position. Avoid resting the rifle on a hard surface or using a bipod - sandbags are best. You should see a hole appear in the card or a bullet impact near it. Once you have a shot on the card you can fire a 3 shot group.. Take the difference in height of each of the three shots from the target center, add them up and divide the result by 3, then do the same with the windage. If you want to be extra sure of your zero, fire a few more groups, add the results together and average them. This will enable you to calculate the adjustment to zero your red dot sight.
Many red dot sights are calibrated in a non traditional way (i.e. not the 1/4 or 1/8 inch at a hundred yards most sportsmen are familiar with). The Trijicon TA31RCO-M4CP (the USMC's AN/PVQ-31B Rifle Combat Optic for the M4 carbine) for example has clicks that are one third of an inch at 100 yards and the Aimpoint CompM4s (the new US Army M68 CCO) has clicks that move the mean point of impact by 16mm at 100 meters. It also isn't always possible to sight in at convenient 100 yard/meter increments thanks to terrain constraints. Lets say you need to zero your M68 on a range that is 30 meters long. Take the mm that one click will move your point of impact by at 100 meters and divide that by 100, then multiply the result by the distance you will actually shoot from, i.e. 30 meters. 16 divided by 100 is .16 and .16 multiplied by 30 is 4.8 which is your click's value in mm at 30 meters. If you are 87mm off to the left you divide 87 by 4.8 to arrive at 18.125 which rounds down to 18. You now turn the windage dial 18 clicks to the right and you are on target in azimuth. Repeat the process with the elevation and you're zeroed. Shoot another three round group to check your zero. This may sound onerous but it will soon become second nature and it will save you a lot of ammunition and frustration.
You may have iron sights to co-witness. Don't fall into the trap of thinking the red dot has to sit straight above your foresight - as long as both the red dot and the iron sights are zeroed it makes no difference if they are apparently out of alignment with each other. If you can, you should now check the zero at a greater distance. If your red dot sight is low mounted (i.e. not on top of an M4 carrying handle) and is chambered for a flat shooting cartridge like the .223 or .308, a 25 yard zero will have put you on target at 200 yards, 2 inches high at 100 and 6-8 inches low at 300. If your range only goes out to 100 yards/meters, zero your scope to be two inches high at that distance. Repeat the process outlined above. A click will move your point of impact twice as far at 200 yards/meters as it does at 100. Manufacturers will normally publish the ballistics of their loads giving their trajectory and wind deflection values - these figures are perfectly good enough for use with a red dot sight at the ranges these are normally used.
Even the best rifle and sight combinations can lose zero, especially if abused. It is good practice to check your zero before any hunting trip or competition and should the rifle or sight take any impacts. Checking zero after long term storage is also a wise precaution.
Copyright Chris Pieterman 2010
Planet Gear: Apparat Organ Quartet's Arp Explorer (drownedinsound)
All week this week **Apparat Organ Quartet** kick off a new 'Planet Gear'
irregular feature for DiS, in which we ask musicians to get a bit geeky and
talk us through the equipment that makes the magic happen...
PSA: Don't Glue Your Shift Knob
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